Bonita - Ecuador

We last left our blog in Peru just about to cross the border into Ecuador. The border crossing is meant to be one of the most feared in all of South America (we only found this out after crossing with no problems and in only about 30 minutes). After crossing the border we were greeted with Bananas, more banana palms than you could imagine. I now know were all Bonita bananas are grown!!! I feel so complete. My trip has been worth while after all.

We had about a week and were planning on going to Baños but after the sun and surf of North Peru we decided to go to Mantañita, a small village that exists due to surfing. Again the waves were too small to even take a 9 foot mal out but you can´t control the weather. The town had a great vibe. All the houses are made from bambo, the street are filled with boardshorts, mini skirts and jandels. Your nose is filled with the smell of dozons of restuarants serving either bbq meats on a coal grill or a huge choice of sea foods. Julie particulaly took a liking to the garlic prawns and at 4 USD a plate I can see why.

Due to the lack of good surf we decided to venture further North to another small village called Puerto Lopez. The attraction of this small fishing village is its proximity to Isla de la Plata which is like the poor mans Galapagos Islands. About $900 US cheaper to be exact!!!!!! It was an awesome experience. On the way you are spoiled with a choreographed hump back whale performance. These whales are the same as those in Kiakoura but instead of feeding they are mating. This along with their need to lose weight in the warm water means they put on a good show by getting fully air bound only tens of metres from the boat. Next was the island and the famous blue footed boobies. Of couse the boobies were my personal favourite!!!!! Other wildlife included Albatros, masked boobies etc. Before we deperted the island we were treated to some world class snorkling around the islands calmer waters seeing parrot fish and other colourful fish.

The only catch about changing our plans and sticking to the coast was the extended travel time to get back on track. A 5am start followed by three different buses and 14 hours of travel. At one stage our entire luggage was lost. We departed the bus, opened the luggage compartments and they were empty. About 20 minutes later after some abusive exchanges and dirty looks they arrived unscathed on a completely different bus? We will never know what happened but we have our bags so dont care.

Back on track after 14 hours we arrived in Baños which is famous for its backdrop which consists of a live volcano which errupted in 2005. It was definitaly still allive with the sky filled with smoke at all times.

Baños was another tourist destination on the gringo trail and therefore catered well. Our first tour was a tour of the water falls. On the way we decided to go bungy jumping Ecuadorian style. This means throwing youself of a bridge with a full body harness. Just before you hit the ground you swing under the bridge to the other side. Julie was ok to begin with but when push came to shove nothing happened for some time. Her legs for good reason were not going to let her jump. It took about 5 long minutes and finally she threw herself off. First words ¨that was the most terifying thing I have ever done¨. Great to hear when you are harnesed up next in line. Of couse I had to jump without hesitation as Julie had already done it and if I bailed I would be a girl. Thats what was running through my head but it didn´t happen that way. I hesitated three times before jumping and like Julie would rate it as one of the most terrifying and exciting moments of my life.

I had always planned on eating a guinea pig while on my South American trip. As yet I havent and this is why...

The next couple of days were spent in Quito which is a World Unesco Heritage site for its amazing architecture and inca/colonial style buildings. There is also a cable car which takes you to an altitude of 4200m which made for stunning views over the city. I am writing this from the Quito airport. We are now on our way to Bogata, Columbia (but only for an hour) and then on to Sao Paulo Brazil.

Sand, Surf and Chocolate Cake

Happy 25th Birthday Chris! He may have been coming off a week of sickness but that was not going to stop him eating a chocolate brownie with ice cream for breakfast on the morning of his quarter century milestone. I have to say that since arriving in Peru we have discovered that they make a mighty fine chocolate cake, so the tradition of following most meals with cake is becoming a daily occurance...hmmm expanding waistline you say?

We had aimed to be in a relaxing hotter place for the birthday celebrations and made it to Huacachina (just out of Ica in Peru) for the occasion. This place is mainly popular for its massive sand dunes and sandboarding, but also because it is an oasis in the middle of the desert and a very nice place to catch your breath for a few days.


Well, as predicted, we promptly hired sand boards and stood at the bottom of the massive dunes and took a breath before trudging our way up towards the top. Oh the leg burn...after 10 minutes of recovery at the top we took the plunge and started trying out our skills at sandboarding. Both of us not being top snowboarders it was a comical first few rides and just as we were getting the hang of it dehydration got the better of us and we headed back to have a bit of pool time before going out again in the afternoon.

As soon as we arrived in Huacachina it was impossible to avoid the numerous dune buggies that loudly scream around the streets begging you to take their tours. We fell victim to the pressure and booked one for 4pm. Thinking we were just being taken out for a couple of hours into the abyiss of massive dunes, being taught to sandboard and taking the lazy option of being dropped at the top of hills instead of back up our hopes weren´t high. Within 3 minutes of the tour we realised that this was not going to be a Sunday drive in the dunes, but instead the rollercoaster of terror. These guys are lunatics...there is no pre-saftey talks or warnings that if you have a heart problem that these tours probably arent for you! For the young at heart though, absolutely exhilirating and terrifying at the same time. You put your life into the hands of these cowboys and pray you make it back in once piece! The sandboarding was boring in comparison! The icing on the cake was the final trip back and we were following another dune buggy and taking the same path. We watched in disbelief as the buggy before us got airborne about 2 metres over the top of the hill and disappeared down the other side...I dont think I was the only one that needed a change of underwear that day. Fortunately we made it safely back and are here to tell the story.

We needed to leave the next day as the adrenaline was too much so off to Huancacho we went...this was more of a beach stop with surf and a chilled out atmosphere. The beach is lined with fishing boats made of reeds that are shaped like sea kayaks, but we werent keen to tackle the surf in one of them with one of the local fisherman so just watched them head out into the waves from the safety of the shore.

It was a wonderful place. Chris got to go surfing, I got to lay in a hammock reading books and the sun was shining...bliss. Around Huancacho is a pre-Inca city called Chan Chan which we visited so we could experience something other than Inca ruins. It was a fascinating place and in its time (1400 BC) it was the biggest city in the world. Only some of it is able to be viewed as it has not all been excavated due to lack of money, but what we did view was well worth it. Unfortunately most of the treasures of the lost city were stolen when the Spanish invaded so the museum attached didnt have much to show in the way of gold or artefacts.

We spent 3 nights sifting around at Huancacho and have now based ourselves in Mancora up the very North of Peru, our last Peruvian stop before crossing the boarder into Ecuador. This place is a beach paradise, but unfortuantely the surf is not cranking so we are forced to laze on the beach, roam through the shops and swelter in the heat...what a shame. For a change of pace we might visit the hot pools about 15kms out of town to try and wash some of this sand off! We are both loving the relaxed vibe of the latter part of our trip as the first 6 weeks was so full on, here´s hoping Ecuador is as chilled...

Doing the Inca Trail is one of the must do things in South America. We had booked the trip four months early as only 2000 people are permitted on the track at any one time. The three days prior to begining the walk I unfortunately came down with a bed ridden illness. This meant no eating or moving for three days. Not the best preparation for a strenuous walk climbing to 4200 metres above sea level!

We decided not to hire extra porters but to carry our gear instead. My tramping pack was 16kgs while Julie´s day pack was 7kgs. The porters are allowed to carry 20kg, not in packs I might add, more like tarps and string with only jandles and straw on there feet. Their loads look akward and uncomfortable and many times we sat there staring in disbelief at what they were carrying, like gas bottles for instance, that can´t be good for your back! Here is an example of the insanity of their loads...

The start of the walk was pretty flat following the Urubabmba river for about ten kms. I felt good and Julie being in full health felt even better only struggling to adjust to the slow pace of our 5 foot guide. After a realaxing lunch in the sun we started the hardest part of the four day trek. I began the 700m climb with a bullet proof attitude!!!! I am from New Zealand where trekking is in my blood. It was going to be a breeze compared to other walks I have done carrying more weight in colder weather for twice as far.

Mmmmmmm well!!!!! I lasted about ten minutes until I was using my walking stick as a paddle to try and raft up the mountain. My lungs were burning, my muscles screaming and my head pounding from altitude. My male ego had to face facts, I could not go on this way. Julie kindly offered to swap bags and lighten my load. With a bag almost the same size as Julie now on her back she set of at a blistering pace summiting the mountain still ten minutes faster than me and an hour and a half faster than the last group members. Without Julie I would have taken days to get to the top (thanks Julie)!!!!!!!!! I began to get my appetite and strength back and on the third and fouth day and was able to once again carry my pack.

After a very VERY chilly first night in the tent trying to recover from the day before we did wake to a beautiful view which boosted the spirits which is what we needed to reach the summit as our first spot in the morning, this was helped by one of the many mammoth breakfasts we were served, in fact all our meals were mammoth, you certainly dont go hungry. Fortunately the climb to the summit was nothing compared to the challenge the day before so we motored up it and celebrated with the classic high fives and summit photos...

The walk itself was amazing. We saw heaps of old indian/inca ruins and were given an insight into their culture, beliefs and way of life. On the final day we woke at 3.30am to be the first group to the sungates and into Machu Picchu. It meant a bit of night running but everybody in the group were keen to try and miss the crowds. Machu Picchu was all it claims to be and more. Coming from New Zealand it is both fascinating and amazing and a must do for anyone thinking of coming here. We decided that 4 days of solid walking wasnt enough so climbed the iconic backdrop mountain of Wynapicchu to get a different outlook of Machu Picchu and again it was well worth it. By 1pm droves of tourists (mostly American) had entered the park on a day trip pass so we said goodbye and returned to Cusco. Here is the view and I promise even though we look superimposed we were actually there!!!

After a short flight from Cusco to Lima we have said goodbye to altitude. Goodbye nose bleeds, racing heartbeat, dry cracked lips and piercing sun. We are not going to be in Lima long as it is another huge city. So big that you could be anywhere in the world and you wouldn´t know it - Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hutt, Casinos, smog, theft its all here, we even went to the movies! We are going to check the surf report and then head down to Ica (Huacachina) to do some sand boarding and celebrate my successful quarter century (a forwarding address for my presents will be sent at a later date!)